Showing posts sorted by relevance for query floor installation. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query floor installation. Sort by date Show all posts

Wednesday, 3 December 2008

Wooden Floor Installation And Renovation

We specialise in floor sanding, wood floor restoration and wooden floor installation, we are not just an 'add on' service.Our dedicated team of experienced floor fitters carry out high quality wooden floor installation from sub floor preparation, installation and finishing.

Our wooden floor installation processes can replicate many classic floor or boarding construction styles.

We are now able to offer a total flooring solutions package being able to fit all types of commercial flooring including ceramic tiles, vinyl's and carpets as well as our wooden floor installation, floor sanding and sealing and court marking.

Whether you need a home improvement, house or flat refurbishment in London, new bathroom, a replacement kitchen, wooden floor installation or renovation, extension or loft conversion, internal or external complete refurbishment, then our name is for you!

Here are the main wooden floor types: Hardwood floors.

Hardwood flooring is available in both unfinished and pre-finished form. They are made up of geometrical patterns, composed of individual wooden slates held together by a mechanical fastening or adhesive. We sand and restore all wooden floors from floorboards to parquet floors, from a small domestic hall way to full size commercial sports halls, schools. We fit all wooden floors specialising in solid oak plank flooring / parquet flooring / re-claimed pine boards / new pine boards / block flooring / hardwood flooring / repairs / sanding in new floors / new to old.

Installing solid wood flooring. Before installing any wood floor you must first make sure the sub-floor is free of loose materials. Before you begin installing a floor, you should give careful consideration to the type of floor you want. Basically when it comes to how to install bamboo flooring, the installing procedure is pretty much the same as with conventional hardwood flooring. Make sure you read all installing instructions from the bamboo flooring manufacturer carefully, because humidity can backfire if it comes to any wooden floor installation.

Parquet flooring this has a very different look from typical hardwoods. All our floor fitters are experienced in all types of wood floor fitting such as: solid wood, laminate, engineered, reclaimed timber, pre finished, unfinished and all types of parquet. We can fit overlay, solid wood, engineered boards and the more specialized herringbone parquet blocks.

It is our particular expertise in Sanding and Refinishing floors, especially in the staining process, which gives us the edge to create individual and exquisite floors for you.

Our wooden floor installation processes can replicate many classic floor or boarding construction styles. Quality of subfloor installation Subfloor is one of the main elements of the wooden floor construction. A suitable floor installation construction should be used. For this reason, all wet construction works in the premises must be completed prior to installing wooden floor on heated or unheated subfloor. Additional factors influencing the use of heated wooden floor Use of wooden floor is influenced by the following additional factors: timber species; method of wood cutting; and wooden floor construction

By: Ovidiu Diaconu

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Thursday, 23 October 2008

Necessities Of Garage Floor Coatings

Garage floor coatings become the important and essential floor coatings for the people. Nowadays, Most of the companies are coming forward to offer garage floor coatings to the customers. The garage floor coatings are offered as per the demand and requirements of the customers. Garage floor coatings have come up with advancement of technology and in different & new levels of coatings. Today, more number of people started realizing the need and purpose of the garage floor coatings and started installing garage floor coatings. All most in every part of the world garage floor coatings are offered by different companies in reasonable prices.

These garage floor coatings are designed and offered as per the demand and requirements of the customers. Garage floor coatings are said to be the best coatings and it adds beauty to your floorings. Proper installation garage floor coatings make the floor coating complete and it gives more beauty to your garage. Installation of garage floor coatings plays a major role in garage floor coatings. Installation of garage floor coatings provides the floor coatings more attraction and impression. Installation of garage floor coatings should be made with the help of the installer or expert or professional. These people possess adequate and relevant knowledge and experience in the field of garage floor coatings.

Proper and complete floor coatings offers precise garage flooring coatings to the customers. In garage floor coatings, the primer, base coat and top coat should be made properly and precisely. Nowadays, with the increase in advancement of technology more number of customers started installing garage floor coatings for their garage. The prices offered for this garage floor coatings are reasonable and based on the spaces the garage floor coatings has been installed, the prices have been fixed. At the time of installation, proper installation and completion should be furnished by the installer or experts. For garage floor coatings, garage floor paints are also offered by many manufacturing units.

When high quality garage floor coatings and paints are used by the installer and dealer, then garage floor coatings comes up with good floor coatings. Garage floor coatings are offered in different chip and floor colors to the customer to come up with new and different levels of garage floor coatings. Today, technology advancements makes possible all garage floor coatings a finite one with different paints. So, more number of people is coming forward to install garage floor coatings for their garage. Therefore, proper care and maintenance should be given for the garage floor coatings installed and any spills try to remove using qualitative cleaners.

Ron victor is an expert SEO Copywriter of Garage Floor Coating, who has written many articles regarding Houston swimming pool Coatings, texas leather Coatings, texas garage floor coatings, Houston WaterBorne Trailer Coating, Houston metal coatings, texas Acrylic coatings. Ron has written many articles for asc-tx.com and to procure any information, contact him at ron.seocopywriter@gmail.com. Visit our site asc-tx.com for further information.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ron_Victor

Wednesday, 22 October 2008

Laminate Hardwood Floor Installation - 7 Reasons For Laminate Floor Solutions

A laminate hardwood floor installation rips out all the high-maintenance management and warping woes that accompany real wood flooring projects. Flooring frustrations are replaced with easy-care, authentic wood looks and textures that are a snap to install. What are the seven main reasons behind the phenomenal growth in do-it-yourself laminate hardwood floor installations?

Reason 1. Laminate Hardwood Flooring Installations Happy Over Any Sub-Floor

There is no need for an expensive and time-consuming tearing up of the sub-floor. Glueless laminate hardwood floor installations can be done with confidence and success over virtually any existing type of flooring. This includes vinyl, tile, concrete and real wood strips. The only exceptions to the rule are carpeting and real hardwood on concrete.

Proper preparation of the sub-floor is vital, however. The surface needs to be absolutely smooth and even. Sand down all peaked joints and other bumps. Use a filler material for any holes or uneven areas. Make sure that the floor is spotless. Any bit of gravel trapped under your new floor, will eventually become an eyesore.

Reason 2. Laminate Hardwood Floor Installations A Long-Term Investment

With today's technology, the core and wear layers of laminate flooring are of a superb quality. Floors are treated to be highly moisture resistant. The aluminum oxide finish of the wear layer ensures maximum protection against scratches, fading, scuff marks, and stains. Many manufacturers include warranties of between 15 and 30 years. By choosing a quality decorating and interior design product for your floors, and following installation and maintenance instructions carefully, you will be ensured of stylish, elegant looks for years to come.

Reason 3. Care-Free, Calamity-Free Flooring For Your Family Home

No overloaded parent has time for finicky floor care day in and day out. With a laminate hardwood floor installation, you will lighten the cleaning load significantly. A mop and brushless vacuum take care of most chores. When necessary, a damp mop is used for a quick wipe. Flooring manufacturers supply dedicated cleaners for tougher spots. If there is a mishap with lipstick or paint, acetone nail polish remover should take care of it instantly. Always check with your flooring supplier to make sure that any cleaning process or solution complies with your warranty conditions. If you deviate from the guidelines, you may void your warranty.

Reason 4. Banish Allergies And Asthma With Laminate Flooring

If your kids suffer from dust-related allergies, new floors may offer the solution you are searching for. No matter how diligent you are with cleaning, carpeting remains a dust-trap. By replacing the flooring surfaces of your home with laminate hardwood floor installations, you will minimize your family's exposure to the offending, irritating particles. The hard, smooth surface is easy to keep spotless. There are no fibres that are reluctant to give up their share of dirt. A quick wipe with a damp mop takes care of the dust problem in a jiffy.

Reason 5. Easy-To-Install Project For Home Remodeling Rookies

Laminate hardwood floor installations are a snap with the latest click-'n-go engineering. No more sticky, messy, frustrating and apprehensive adhesive struggles. Even the most 'unhandy' amateur handyman can tackle these glueless flooring projects with confidence. There is no need to call in the services of a professional hardwood flooring contractor. You can successfully install a new, ready-to-use floor within about a day. As long as you make sure that you don't have problems with moisture in the sub-floor, and are able to follow the manufacturer's guidelines closely, you should be able to complete the installation on your own.

Reason 6. Tempting Authentic Real Hardwood Grains And Textures

From Pergo Flooring, to Armstrong Flooring and Bruce Hardwood Flooring now include every real wood grain under the sun. Shadings vary from light and airy to the rich, warm hues of the darker woods. Textures are as close to the real thing as possible. Planks are now even beveled to give the appearance of real wood planks. A laminate hardwood floor installation can now come with rustic, weathered looks.

Recently the ranges have been expanded to include a variety of realistic ceramic tile and stone tile finishes, complete with grout lines. Every type of decorating or interior design project is catered for, from old-world to contemporary. The flooring planks can be matte or may present a gleaming, shiny face to the world. Thanks to innovative technology, the days of plastic and fake-looking laminates are long gone.

Reason 7. Much To Do About Mishaps On Laminates

If you have kids and pets you will fall in love with laminates. No only will you have far fewer worries about crayon stains, puddles, and other potential flooring fiasco's, you will know that in the event of a major accident, a section of flooring can replaced with ease. As long as you keep an unopened box or two of flooring planks in storage, you will be equipped to re-do an area of flooring in no time. Whereas a damaged carpet has to be replaced completely, a laminate hardwood floor installation allows you to handle the inevitable family mishap with a smile.

Have a bit of decorating and interior design face-lift fun by joining the laminate hardwood floor installation crowd!

Published At: www.Isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=155379&ca=Home+Management

Sunday, 8 March 2009

Installing Hardwood Flooring Over Concrete and Wood Sub Floors

Expansion & Contraction of Hardwood Flooring

"The flooring shop said to leave 10mm for solid wood floor expansion at the walls...now the boards are lifting off the floor." Ill informed advice like this often leads to floor problems. Many flooring sales people unfamiliar with solid wood flooring assume expansion is the same as laminate flooring. In reality that 10mm is not enough for solid wood flooring.

What Is An Expansion Area? Why Do We Need It?

Expansion areas are spaces left around the perimeter of rooms, against fixed objects such as columns, thresholds, hearths, skirting boards, and other stationary items built or secured into the framing structure of the home. Even though Hardwood flooring used is no longer living and breathing it still reacts to moisture changes in the environment. The cells in the solid wood will take on or absorb moisture when the relative humidity is high, or when exposed to water. Expansion takes place, and the hardwood grows, for lack of a clearer term, across the grain (width) of the plank (see below, not all will react this way). Conversely when air moisture levels decrease, moisture content evaporates, shrinking of the solid wood will occur.

When we say spaces, they are defined as installing the hardwood flooring up to and away from the fixed objects. For example; "we recommend at least 15mm small to medium area-18mm expansion on larger areas at the skirting board or wall if new skirting to be fitted."

Hardwood flooring can react to the presence of moisture. In the dry winter heating months, moisture can leave the wood flooring causing the floor to contract slightly in size, which can leave slight gaps between each floor board. In the summer months when the humidity is higher, the hardwood flooring will expand and the gaps will disappear. If there is too much moisture in the subfloor it will cause the wood planks to cup, or buckle. Nearly all problems related to hardwood flooring are due to improper installation and sub floor preparation. This is why it is important when installing hardwood flooring that you follow the correct recommended installation methods by the manufacturer.

Direct Glue Installations

A direct glue installation requires the use of a flooring adhesive applied directly onto the subfloor (never directly apply to the boards). This method can be used on concrete and wooden subfloors. When done correctly this is the most stable method for fitting solid wood flooring as the elastic flooring adhesive allows the floor to expand and contract with no problems.

If you are laying over a concrete subfloor you will first need checked the concrete moisture, if the floor has a moisture content of over 4% then either wait until the sub floor dries to meet this level or use an appropriate moisture barrier, we recommend Sika Mb Primer to ensure no damp rises up into your new floor.

Also note that new concrete slabs require a minimum of 60 days drying time before covering them with a wood floor.

All Concrete sub-floors must be dry, smooth, level and free of structural defects. If the concrete sub floor is uneven we recommend using sika latex self leveling compound to level the subfloor. The concrete must also be free of contaminants i.e. paint, oil, wax grease, dirt and curing compounds (the reason for this is that you need the self leveling compound to bond to the sub floor).These may be removed chemically or mechanically as your local hardware store and they will sell you the correct floor cleaner, but do not use solvent-based strippers under any circumstances. The use of residual solvents can create problems with the bonding of flooring adhesives. It is important to ensure a proper bond between the adhesives and concrete and wood panels.

If you have a wooden subfloor you will need to lay a plywood base over the existing floor boards (we recommend using 4mm -6mm exterior grade plywood and screw down every 15cm along the edges and at 20cm intervals throughout the rest of the board using the 1 inch deck screws) before installation, this will then give you a smooth and level surface for you to install you hardwood flooring onto.

You will need to leave a 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room for large areas over 6 meters in length we recommend 18mm expansion gap. To maintain this gap during installation spacers are provided in the kits. After you have installed the hardwood floor you can cover this expansion gap with scotia or new skirting boards The 15mm expansion gap also needs to be left in doorways where the hardwood floor follows through from one room to another we sell on this website a full range of door profiles available to match your floor.

Nailed Down Installations

Nailed down installation is the traditional way to install hardwood floors and can be done either directly onto wooden subfloor or on a concrete subfloor with the use of battens. When fixing battens onto concrete you will need a power-actuated nailer to drive through the battens and fix directly into the concrete, firstly lay out polyethylene moisture sheet then plywood over the battens to create a new sub floor. We recommend 12mm exterior grade plywood and 2inch x 4inch battens. Lay battens around perimeter at ½ inch from the wall, leave ¼ inch gap at each end. Position the first batten so its centre is 16 inches from the outside edge of the perimeter batten. Lay out the remaining battens across the area 16 inch intervals. Always check you battens are level using a level gauge you may need to use cedar shims to level out dips in the concrete, slide the shims under the battens until level. (If in doubt we recommend consulting a professional fitter for this method).

Wooden Subfloor

Hardwood floors can be nailed into existing wooden subfloors such as floorboards or plywood but not into chipboard floors as these are not strong enough to hold the nails. The floorboards must be in good condition and level if not it is advisable to lay 6mm exterior grade plywood down first.

To avoid creaking, check over the subfloor and securely fasten any loose floorboards. For added soundproofing it is also advisable to use a standard foam underlay.

When you nail down a solid wood floor you use a Porta Nailer to drive a nail at a 30 degree angle through the tongue and into the subfloor. Porta Nailers can be hired from any good hire shop but are expensive to buy.

Again you will need to leave a 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. To maintain this gap during installation spacers are provided in the installation kits.

After you have installed the floor you can cover this expansion gap with scotia or new skirting boards.The 15mm expansion gap also needs to be left in doorways where the floor follows through from one room to another; we sell full range of door profiles available to match your floor on this website.

WASTAGE

When ordering your new floor we recommend you allow for some wastage due to cuts a professional fitter would add on an extra 2%-5% of flooring needed to finish a job. We recommend non professional fitter should add on 5%-10%.
for futher information visit our website where you can also buy the wood flooring online at http://www.ukflooring4less.co.uk/


Wednesday, 8 April 2009

Real Wood Floor Installation

Real wood floor installation – how is it done? Using the latest techniques, its is possible to easily and efficiently fit, clean and restore wooden floors in a great cost-efficient way. Now it is possible to turn old, worn and abrasive wooden floor surfaces into stylishly and cleanly polished wooden floors that look like they come right out of the shop. We will look into how wooden floor fitting can be done best.

The best method of conducting a wooden floor fitting is by using state-of-the art fitting and sanding machines. The wooden floor sanding machines used to carry out wooden floor sanding in have seen many advances over the years, and the newest technologies allow for a virtually dust free floor sanding service to the customer. Also it's by far the most cost-effective solution to conduct such a modern and highly-polished wooden floor sanding installation.

The finishing work is done by using the absolute best quality wood sealers and a wide variety of colours mean that all customers can have exactly what they desire. Anyone interested in hiring a company in order to restore and sand their wooden floors are advised to take a look around town and on the internet for the best possible solution. People in need of a wooden floor maintenance operation have to be patient and compare both prices and services to come to a decision.

It is very important to make sure all the technicians are highly skilled craftsmen who have been working with wooden floors for a very long time. Only by selecting the best team and company for the job, customers can have confidence in both the workmanship and punctuality. A good company can't allow any bad recognition or any dents in their reputation, so keep that in mind. When you are unsure of the total costs of the operation, it is interesting to note that many companies offer a free quotation beforehand to evaluate the work needed.

It is also extremely important that wooden floor fitting companies use the very best equipment and the latest technology to perform a wooden floor sanding. The expert of choice in this case a floor sander, who will always look for the best solution in every situation. Floor sanders use very heavy floor machines since these machines give the best possible finish.

Floor sanders first have to evaluate the lipping in the wood floors. If there is much lipping then the wooden floor must first be sanded at 45 degrees to remove any unwanted lippage in the floor. When this has been done, floor sanders try to smooth out every bump they encounter and dispose of any scratches or dents in the floor. A sanding machine uses various sanding belts to get the smoothest end result.Then, a rooler or applicator is used to seal the wood and complete the process. In the end – when done well – professional wooden floor fitting will give a fantastic end result and deliver wooden floors with an incredible durability.

By: Daniel Lafferty

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Wednesday, 21 January 2009

Basement Flooring – What Floor Works Best?

Choosing appropriate flooring is difficult enough without the problems that come with finding floors for a basement complicating things even further. The biggest issue in almost any basement is, of course, unwanted moisture. Moisture seeps in from below through the concrete and has the power to weaken the bond of the adhesive used for floors or tiles, to make hardwood floors buckle and warp and to make carpets acquire that elusive basement smell caused by mold growing below the soft veneer.

Before you go dreaming up designs and making plans for your basement, check to make sure that your floor is suitable for such installations. Take a sheet of impermeable material that is about 3’x3’ big, like a trash bag, for example, and lay it flat on the basement floor, sealing it with tape on all four sides to make sure that no air gets in. Do this in a couple corners and areas by walls as well as in the center of the room. Leave it there for at least a full 24 hours and then check under the bags to see if moisture has accumulated.

If it is damp under the bag, then you have a moisture problem that needs to be resolved before you proceed. Depending on the source and extent of moisture, there are solutions that range from the simple to the annoying. This is a whole separate beast covered in other articles.

So, let’s pretend like in this particular Choose Your Own Adventure novel you turned to the page that cheerily informed you that your basement is dry. Now you can begin to think of your different flooring options.

The main floor coverings available are carpet, hardwood floor, engineered hardwood floor, laminate floor, ceramic and porcelain tile and cement.

In general, carpeting, hardwood floor and laminate floor are not recommended for basements. Variations in humidity, which are common in basements, warp hardwood and laminate floors and encourage mold growth in carpets. Even basements that are treated for moisture related problems can have seasonal trouble with moisture or during excessive rain. Exceptional events can have long-term effects that will leave the floor warped or ruined. If you insist on installing one of the above floors in your basement, take some precautions, like the installation of a vapor guard under the floor. A durable and high density polyethylene sheet with 3/8” tall dimples creates air space between the flooring and the cement slab, trapping any moisture and preventing it from traveling up to the surface of your newly installed floor.

Engineered floor is an excellent alternative to hardwood floor in the basement. Engineered floor is flooring constructed from three to five layers of different hardwood materials with either a hardwood or high density fiberboard core. Because of the layered construction, engineered floor has a higher resiliency to humidity changes that keeps it looking good even in finicky basements. Additionally, engineered floors are thinner, so you can add extra insulation and they have a real hardwood floor layer at the surface, so you can pick the look you want just as you would when sifting through solid hardwood floor.

Another option is laminate floor. Laminate floors are composed of a moisture resistant wood based core, a backing, and a resin based melamine or aluminum oxide decorative surface with a clear layer of aluminum oxide, like a finish on traditional hardwood floors, which strengthens the surface and protects against staining and scratching. Laminate floors are floating floors, meaning they are not attached directly to the sub floor, which makes installation directly on the concrete or putting a vapor guard down easier. Most laminates should be fine to use in basements but when looking at laminate check to make sure the manufacturer does not advise against it, as is the case with certain laminates. Make sure you do the moisture tests, because when laminates do buckle they are difficult to fix.

If you’ve determined that your basement is sufficiently dry and moisture tests have shown the floor to be consistently dry, you may also want to consider ceramic or porcelain tile. The tiles can be installed directly on the cement floor, a durable and good sub floor for tiling (or as a precaution, try installing 2 by 4 inch sleepers, cover with plastic and put in plywood to be used as the sub floor). Check for cracks, which are bad in general and should be fixed before any basement remodeling project ensues, but especially for ceramic tile, as cracks in the cement will actually fracture the tiles at the surface.

Finally, the easiest alternative to more traditional flooring options is painting or staining the cement sub floor that is present in most basements. You have a lot of flexibility with color schemes and any problems that may develop in the floor will remain visible, instead of festering under layers of padding and floors. It is easy to insulate the cold cement floor with a thick throw rug.

No matter which route you choose for your basement floor, below ground installations require that you be especially meticulous in preparing the sub floor for installation and making sure that the space as a whole is suitable for your uses. Get a professional to check your basement’s usability and to recommend a course of action for making it usable if it doesn’t seem to be at first. It may be worth the extra investment, as it would be a shame if your newly renovated basement began to creak, buckle and smell from the mold right after you finished it.

Published At: www.Isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=76802&ca=Home+Management

Tuesday, 12 May 2009

Radiant Heat And Ceramic Floor Tile

If you have radiant heat and are planning a ceramic floor tile installation, then understanding the function of membranes will certain be beneficial. This article will teach you about various membranes in conjunction with radiant heat, so that your floor tile installation will be done properly.

There have been many tragic ceramic floor tile installation disasters by using the wrong membranes or none at all. If the membranes and/or bonding mortars are not compatible your bond will be lost and problems will occur.

With a floor tile installation make sure your membranes meet current ANSI standards and that manufacturers instructions are followed properly.

With floor tile installations, membranes are used for a variety of reasons, each having a specific purpose, such as moisture vapor emission membranes, cork underlay, peel and stick membranes and liquid or trowel applied membranes.

A load bearing, bonded, uncoupling membrane is also a full coverage membrane, but it’s made of thicker material than the anti-fracture membrane. The air cavities that are pressed into its surface allow for lateral movement.

A cleavage membrane is not bonded to the concrete. The function of this membrane is to separate the tile assembly from the concrete and isolate the wire-reinforced mortar bed and the ceramic floor tile installation from any instability in the wood or concrete sub-floor.

A crack isolation membrane is bonded to the sub-floor to cover existing shrinkage cracks and must cover three times the width of the floor tile used, with a minimum width of 6 inches.

An anti-fracture membrane is also bonded to the sub-floor, but this membrane needs to fully cover the sub-floor in order to protect against shrinkage, moisture and expansion and/or contraction of the concrete.

With a radiant heat system a moisture barrier is important in controling moisture and stoping liquid from passing through. Always consider all of the options, because the improper use of a membrane may trap moisture and cuase condensation.

Just remember that when you’re doing a ceramic floor tile installation make sure that you use the correct membrane especially if you have in-floor radiant heating otherwise you could end up with cracked tile and grout and an expensive repair bill.

Wednesday, 18 February 2009

Ceramic Floor Tile Installation - 5 Tips For Success

Ceramic floor tile installation is a great way to get a long-lasting beautiful floor. There are several tricks to getting a great looking floor tile job though. Really getting off to the right start is key to a good looking floor. Get started right and you'll be pleased with the results.

The right start begins with the base over which you install the tile. You see tile can be installed over all kinds of materials. You can put tile over plywood, concrete, vinyl flooring or even over other ceramic tile. But the one must is that the surface must be stable. It can't be flexible and it can't bend. That's because the tile floor will crack if the underlying layers moves. Often the first step in a professional tile installation is installation of a layer of cement board. That often guarantees a rigid surface.

That solid base is part of the planning of a tile project. Planning and design of a tile project is a big part of a successful installation. Before that first tile is laid, check the squareness of the room. Have you ever seen a perfectly square room? You want to work from the best corner and plan to put he cut tiles in the least visible spot. Plan for where the cuts will be to get the best results.

Once you get started, the goal is to keep the tile spacing as even as possible. Tile spacers in the right width are the best tell to get this done. Also a simple carpenter square helps to keep a close check to maintain alignment. Often nailing down some straight guide boards, batten boards, is another helpful move. Especially for the first row of tiles, a guide board can help get you off to the right start.

At one or more walls you will cut the border tiles to fit the remaining space. Now cutting is one of the skills a tile setter gets to practice. You'll need tile nippers for small trim work and probably a wet tile saw. Sometimes on a floor job with just straight cuts, a cutter board may be all you need. This tool scores a tile with a groove so it can be easily broken. It takes a little practice to break the tile on the line.

Grouting the joints is the finishing step. Grout comes in several types. Some are acrylic. Some are masonry. Some are epoxy. The epoxy grout is really waterproof and is especially well suited in bathrooms to keep water from soaking into the floor.

Ceramic floor tile installation requires quite a bit of planning. A well planned job will result in the best looking floor with the minimum of waste. Ceramic floors also are a great place to show creativity in mixing tiles into patterns. There are some tricks to getting a tile floor just right. If you get a chance, it helps to watch a pro work on a job or two.

You can get access to video tutorials showing a master installer do ceramic floor tile installation in several different rooms at our website.

Al Bullington invites you to visit http://InstallingCeramicTile.net for answers to your tile questions.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Al_Bullington

Thursday, 4 December 2008

A Pergo Floor Will Last For Years

You should think about laying down Pergo flooring in your home if you want great flooring. It has a great tongue and groove system that will make sure your floor looks great and is installed easily and accurately. You can do it on your own or hire a pro to install your pergo floor. Installing flooring is something you can do on your own if you really want to or get your retailer to recommend a trusted professional.

You will need to determine just how much flooring you need before you buy anything. You can use a room sizing calculator to help you figure out how much you need to buy. If you want to lay the floor down on your own than you will need to just buy your Pergo floor and go with it. It is a complete system so everything you need will be including in your installation package. You will receive the following:


• Pergo Glue (Make sure to use this so the warranty will be honored)

• Installation Kit – This will ensure tight joints and has spaces and a tapping block

• Pull bar – This will make sure that you have a tight fit in hard to get to spots

• Under-layments – This will get rid of any issues with your sub-floor and give you great insulation

• Floor clamps – These can make the installation mush smoother and will make your floor even sturdier

• Pergo Sealant – This will make sure that the gaps are secured between the fllor and the wall to make sure that moisture stays out

• Pergo Putty – This will help to repair any damaged areas that might occur when you are laying the flooring

• Installation straps – These will help make the whole task simpler for you

You should realize before you lay down your Pergo floor that it is for use inside only. You must lay it down as a floating floor and there must be enough room around the sides. You can not attach it to the sub-floor.

You also need to keep in mind you local temperature and humidity, as well a the movement in your home and around other objects. The expansion distance is about ¼” normally and you need to realize this for proper installation especially in a doorway or corner.

Make sure that your Pergo products are allowed to acclimate in their sealed boxes before installation. 48 hours is usually enough, but 96 hours can be required when the temperature is very dry. The humidity should be around 30-90% where the carpets will be installed.

Pergo can be laid on or below grade. You should also make sure the Pergo plans are installed over the Pergo Underlayment Foam or Whisperwalk. If you install on top of concrete then the Pergo 6-mil polyethylene vapor barrier is necessary. Check out sub-floor info before you install.

Wednesday, 26 November 2008

Think About Installing A Pergo Floor

If you are thinking about installing Pergo flooring, pay attention to these handy tips. Pergo is a laminated flooring that is installed over an underfloor by a unique system of tongue and groove fitting. There are many reputable floor installers who can install Pergo floors, and the retailer where you purchase you Pergo flooring can advise you of one, but Pergo can be installed by the homeowner fairly easily. Pergo is a complete flooring system, and you can get all of the necessary material to install your Pergo floor at your flooring retailer. These include:

Pergo glue-you must use Pergo glue to keep your warranty valid

Pergo installation kit-this will give you the proper spacers and tapping block for tight joints

Pull bar-to get a tight fit in hard to reach areas

Underlayment-to even out unevenness in the underfloor, and to give heat and sound insulation qualities to the floor

Floor clamps-make installation easier and give additional strength to the floor

Pergo sealant-to seal the gap between the floor and the wall, which will allow maximum resistance to moisture

Pergo putty-mends damage to the flooring

Installation straps-makes the installation simpler

Before you install a Pergo floor, you must be aware of certain facts. Pergo is only intended for indoor flooring use, not outdoor. It must be installed as a floating floor, and not secured in any way to the under flooring. It is critical that a small amount of clearance is left around the perimeter to allow for expansion or contraction of the floor.

Floor movement will be determined by a number of factors, including proximity to walls, staircases, pipes and other fixed objects, changes in moisture and temperature, house settling, etc. In a normal situation, the clearance should be 1/4 inch. This allowance is most critical in corners, angles or door or other openings.

The Pergo flooring should be allowed to sit for at least 48 hours in the area it will be installed, to allow for the material to acclimate to the ambient conditions. If your climate is extremely dry or extremely humid, you should allow an additional 48 hours for this acclimation. During the installation, the installation site should be kept at a relative humidity of 30-90%. A stable temperature is important, and should be within 15 degrees of the normal temperature of the home.

Pergo can be installed at, above or below grade. The planks should be installed upon Pergo Underlayment Foam or "Whisperwalk". If you install directly over concrete, you will have to install a 6 mil polyethylene vapor barrier over the concrete. The particular sub floor you are using may have additional requirements.

Published At: www.Isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=126291&ca=Home+Management

Tuesday, 6 January 2009

Under Floor Heating

Under floor heating systems may be an excellent source of heating a home but if you already have a fuel efficient source of heating your home, you may still find a way to use an under floor heating system. Converting your entire house to an under floor heating system can be a time consuming and costly project. However, many homeowners may opt to utilize under floor heating in only one room in the house such as the master bathroom. In this case the under floor heating system is used more as a matter of convenience than a source of heat. If stepping out of the shower and onto cold tile on cold winter mornings is that unappealing you might want to invest approximately $500 to have an under floor heating system installed in your bathroom to eliminate this problem. Under floor heating systems can provide the convenience of warm floors on a cold morning but they also have a number of other advantages. These advantages include the lack of hot circulating air that can carry germs and bacteria, no maintenance requirements and extreme cost efficiency.

While it may be purely a matter of convenience that is driving you to install an under floor heating system, the consolation is that once installed under floor heating systems are incredibly cost effective and can operate on literally pennies per day of electricity. Under floor heating systems can be concealed under any type of flooring. The basic concept of under floor heating systems requires a length of heat resistant wire to snake under the floor. This wiring is used to radiate the heat upwards through the floor.

Installation of under floor heating systems is relatively simple. The heat resistant wires are 1/8” thick and can be entrenched in thinset concrete that will not require significant elevation of the floor to accommodate the under floor heating system. Although installing an under floor heating system is a relatively simple process there is one aspect of the installation that cannot be ignored. This part of the process that cannot be understated is checking the ohm resistance. This should be done at least three times during the installation process. The ohm resistance should be checked prior to starting the project, after the thinset concrete has been laid and after the flooring has been installed over the heating element. Carefully checking the ohm readings at each of these stages will ensure that the heating elements are functioning properly.

Garry John has written many articles on under floor heating and more general home improvement topics.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Garry_John

Tuesday, 17 February 2009

Is Under-Floor Heating Hard To Install Beneath A Hardwood Floor?

Thermatec electric under-floor heating system is suitable for most types of wooden flooring.

Normal methods of installing electric under floor heating systems in rooms with wooden or laminate flooring involved using cable systems covered with difficult to use and time consuming liquid floor screeds These tend to be messy and extend the installation time and costs because of drying and curing times. They are also far less efficient than Thermatec as they need to be run at a far higher temperature.


Flexible carbon heating film is the ideal solution for providing an economic electric under floor heating solution for a variety of floor coverings. Flexible carbon heating film is ultra thin, strong, and is a completely dry lay system for heating under laminate or timber floating wood flooring.


Flexible electric carbon heating film is supplied Made to measure to fit your room exactly. At Birbek, we use three different widths (400mm, 530mm and 1003mm) and design the layout using C.A.D. to ensure every part of the floor area is covered. All wiring connections are made in our factory so that the heating mat can be laid, and the wood floor fitted long in advance of the electrician providing the 230V mains connection. This makes a considerable saving in time and money. It also means you do not have to invest in crimps, presses or heat shrink tape to complete the installation.


Installation of carbon heating film requires no previous experience. Installation is completely dry and is simply a matter of It can be laid upon most concrete or timber sub-floors when used in conjunction with the correct Depron thermal insulation.

Flexible carbon heating element is less than 1mm thickness Even with the recommended floor insulation layer of closed cell polystyrene the floor build-up is only 6.5mm. This avoids potential problems with skirting boards and door thresholds.


Carbon heating elements are super reliable, safe and robust. They come without any moving parts, so they are completely maintenance free. Brands of carbon heating film like Ecofilm from Flexel International are fully approved to the relevant electrical safety standard IEC60335-2-96 and comply with the 17th Edition electrical wiring regulations. Ecofilm and Thermatec heating elements come with a 10-year guarantee.


The heating film can be used as an effective direct acting radiant heating system. It can be used as a substitute for traditional convector radiators by providing primary heat or just be used to warm a cool floor surface and provide background heat.


Flexel Carbon Heating Element has become a firm favorite with installers and users because it is simple and economic to install and efficiently creates gentle under-foot warmth that heats the entire room. This means leaving no overheated or cold spots.

It ensures clean balanced heat distribution at the lowest possible temperature, resulting in high user comfort levels and improved economy. The heating is totally safe, even under wood floors,its radiated heat provides overall warmth and comfort without the usual dust carrying convective air currents of conventional radiator systems.

This form of heating is easily controlled by room thermostats and is particularly suited to new build, extensions, hard-to-heat areas, conservatories, hallways, kitchens and bedrooms. It becomes invaluable in many other locations where the absence of radiators is a distinct space-saving advantage.

About the Author

Paul is the installation manager at Birbek Wood Floor Heating Birbek is a UK distributor of Thermatec made to measure underfloor heating for wood flooring http://www.birbek.com

Article Directory: http://www.articlerich.com

Sunday, 10 May 2009

How To Install Bamboo Flooring Over A Wood Sub-Floor

Please note, because of the differences in installation methods, this article covers installation over a wood sub-floor. This article also assumes you have selected your grain and color of flooring.

Tools Required:

1. Chalk Line


2. Rubber Mallet


3. Hand Saw


4. Plastic or Wooden Spacers (1/4”)


5. Pneumatic Flooring Package (air compressor and hose, gun mallet and staples)

Note: This package can be rented at most rental centers. Make sure you get the correct staples for the gun. The staples may look alike, but it is important to get the proper gauge that fits the gun.

Preparation:

Remove shoe moldings and make sure the sub-floor is even, clean, dry and smooth. Sanding may be necessary in order to obtain smooth, even surface. If sanding is needed, make sure the floor is completely cleaned of dust and debris afterward. Also, if you notice any floor squeaks, correct them now by securing the sub-floor to the joists as needed. Door jambs may also need to be cut so planks will fit under them to create a finished look. Simply place a piece of flooring against the jamb, mark it and cut the jamb at the line.

Once you have received your flooring, it must first be allowed to acclimate itself in the room in which it will be installed. Flooring should be removed from its boxes and stored in the room it will be installed in for a minimum of two days, preferably three to five days before installation. This will let the floor adjust to the room’s humidity and temperature. Because of natural variations in the flooring, it is recommended you layout the planks to get an idea of how you want them arranged before making any cuts or nailing any boards down.

Installation:

It is recommended that you install flooring parallel with the longest wall of the room for the best visual effect. Measure the width of a plank from this wall and add 1/4” to the measurement. Next, at this spot, snap a chalk line across the room to mark where you will begin flooring. This 1/4” is important to provide expansion/contraction room for the flooring.

Arrange the first row with the groove for the flooring facing the wall. Also, begin placing spacers between the flooring and the wall. Spacers should be inserted approximately every 12 inches and at each joist. This gives you a firm base to install against, but ensures you maintain your 1/4” gap. This starter row should be nailed to the flooring joists underneath the sub-floor. The edge of the flooring which faces the wall (groove edge) may be face nailed since it will be covered by shoe molding after installation. The other edge should be secured by blind nailing with the pneumatic gun approximately every ten inches, no closer than 6 inches. Also avoid nailing to close to the end of a board to avoid splitting the board.

As you begin your next row, make sure your board joints are staggered. In other words, no two ends of adjacent rows should meet. You can achieve this by cutting off 6-8 inches of the first board in your next row. This varying board length is not only for visual effect, but is also essential so as not to weaken the floor.

Tip: Make sure you match tongue to groove as you lay each row. Otherwise you will create very unsightly gaps and an uneven floor. Also, use a scrap piece of floor braced against the piece you are installing and tap against the scrap piece with the rubber mallet to work the flooring into place.

On the last row, blind nailing by hand will be necessary since the pneumatic gun will not fit. As a last resort, the last row can be face nailed in lieu of blind nailing.

Finishing Up:

Once all the flooring is has been laid, replace the shoe moldings and give the floor a final sweep up. Now it’s time to bring back in furniture, rugs, etc. and your room remodel is complete.

Friday, 17 July 2009

Floor Tiles - How to Effectively Install Them

If your house is new or is under renovation, you will definitely need to install new tiles for your floor to give it a fresh and elegant look. And a well-planned design and good installation have an important part in completing this project. Think about this, you may spend large sum of money for buying tiles with nice designs, however, if you installed them incorrectly, they will just look cheaper than they are really worth. So, you really have to pay extra attention with installing your floor tiles at home.

If you want to achieve the best look for your home, keep these things in mind when installing floor tile:

1. Be sure that you have a rough draft of the tiling pattern to use. When preparing the rough draft, use the actual dimensions of the tiles and the area to be tiled. After you have estimated the required number of tiles needed, add a few more in case there will be breakage during the installation process.

2. Next, make certain that the area to be tiled is clean. You can also level the floor first by cementing the floor. Leveling the floor will avert any tile breakage when they are already in place. Or another option to level the floor is to place plywood on the floor and then mount the tiles on them.

3. Once you have set everything up and you're ready to lay the tiles, begin in the middle of the room and continue laying the tiles down in the direction of the walls.

4. When you realized that the tile is too big to fit in a particular space, you can simply cut them using a tile cutter.

Lastly, after you have laid all the tiles, you must seal all the joints between the floor tiles. This will prevent stains and dirt from getting in the tile spaces. If you will follow these tips, you will definitely achieve your desired look for that particular space.

Monday, 3 November 2008

Laminate Floor Care and Maintenance

Laminate floor care and maintenance starts with proper installation. If you will be installing your laminate floor over a concrete sub floor then you will want to make sure that you install a vapor shield before you lay down the underlayment material. If you will be installing your laminate floor on top of existing flooring or plywood, you will want to make sure that the sub floor is level. If you try installing the laminate flooring over an uneven surface you can cause the planks to crack or break.

The next stage of laminate floor care and maintenance is to keep your floors clean. Cleaning your laminate floor will typically only involve sweeping the surface once a week. You can help extend the life of your floor by making sure that you remove course debris from the floor as soon as possible. If the floor becomes sticky or grimy then you can use a damp cloth or mild cleanser to clean the floor. You do not want to over-wet the surface of your laminate flooring as this can cause warping.

If your laminate flooring is scratched of gauged you can repair this damage by using a repair kit or wood putty. Start by cleaning the damaged area. Then follow the application instructions offered by the putty or repair kit. Fill in the gauge or scratch with the putty using the applicator or a toothpick. Smooth the putty at the surface of the plank so that it is level and wipe off the excess. Allow the putty to dry.

If your laminate floor has a damaged plank that is beyond repair you can replace it. If the plank is near the edge of the floor you can remove the baseboard and then snap out the damaged plank and fit in the replacement plank. If the plank is not in an easy to access area of your floor, or if you have a glued plank floor then you will need to cut the plank out and replace it with a modified new plank. To get your new plank to fit in the hole left by the old plank then you will need to cut off its tongue before you glue it into place.

Is laminate flooring right for you? Find out more at LaminateFloorsCheap.com - your source for information on caring for laminate floors, do it yourself floor installation information and professional flooring advice. For more home decor and remodeling options visit the search engine friendly directory.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sarah_Freeland

Sunday, 4 January 2009

Floor Safes - Proven Protection

With an alarming increase on crime rates these days, more and more people are getting cynical about their belongings and how they can protect them against intrusion and the elements. Thus, manufacturers and entrepreneurs came up with an idea on how to safeguard man’s valuable things and properties through a device that can endure the test of time. And so, floor safes came into the limelight. Basically, a safe has three main classifications or configurations. They are the wall or wall-mounted safes, the freestanding safes, and the in-floor or simply floor safes. Without going into the details of the other two, let us discuss the compositions of floor safes.

1. The Nature Of Floor Safes

Basically, floor safes, like its two counterparts, are specially designed to provide protection and security to valuables and other pertinent documents. As it name suggests, floor safes are exclusively made to be mounted into the concrete slab of the floor. Because of its position, manufacturers of floor safes strongly suggest that the position of the safe must be carefully analysed and considered so as to maximize its potential. If mounted properly end extensively, floor safes can be the best protection against burglary and even tragedies like fire.

2. Installation

Floor safe installations are actually more complicated and more expensive compared to wall safes. When installing floor safes, you have to cut a slab out of the floor first. Then, you have to dig a hole. After which the safe is placed into the hole and more concrete is poured to cover the area. This will firmly ground the safe and prevent it from being physically removed during a burglary.

3. About Floor Safes

Floor safes are under the category of composites safes. That means that they have a combination of two functions, to combat fire and burglary. In its entirety, the floor safe has been tested against all forms of burglary. The ratings that floor safes obtain will also determine the price of the item.

One drawback that consumers find on floor safes is that it has a tick wall covering, which, by practicality, floor safes render smaller space as compared to the typical metal vaults or the ordinary filing cabinets. But people must understand that the main reason why floor safes are designed this way is because of its purpose, and that is to protect the valuables and not just be a mere storage item.

The other feature of floor safes is its electronic lock. It provides convenience to the user because they no longer have to rotate on a counting basis so as to open the safe. Plus, because it is electronic, the floor safe’s combination can be changed as often as you like.

The ironic drawback of floor safes is that, during a burglary, the burglar will have no option to try and take the safe with him, which may instigate him to be more hostile and violent with nearby hostages in hopes of obtaining the combination. Thus, the floor safe should be considered the absolute ideal safe for coverage at night and when no one is present.

Published At: www.Isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=34361&ca=Home+Management

Sunday, 7 November 2010

Install a New Tile Floor Over Your Old One

One of the biggest objections many homeowners have about installing a new tile floor in their homes is the mess that tearing out the old floors cause. If the thought of ripping up your old floor is giving you nightmares and is what is preventing you from installing a new tile floor, a new Italian tile-Kerlite-may be the solution you have been seeking. Kerlite is a very thin tile created to install over the top of the old tile floor.

Numerous Benefits

This revolutionary tile brings several benefits to the table when considering installing a new tile floor. Since it omits the need to rip out your old floor, it alleviates your home from turning into a construction zone as far as the dusty mess that ripping up an old floor can bring. Because the tile is installed over your old floor, it also makes installing the new floor faster and easier, which means less down time or off limits areas in your home. It can also save you the cost of having to have your tile installers tear out and remove the old tile and the debris.

In addition, the thinness of the tile does not have an adverse effect on the height of your floor. The tile was intentionally created to be thin, yet durable, so that when it is installed over old tile, there is not a noticeable difference when looking at or walking on the floor. Finally, the cost for installing this tile runs about the same as any other tile, so there is no added cost for installing the new floor on top of the old one.

One Drawback

The only aspect of the tile that may cause you to pause is the price. Each tile is more expensive than traditional tile, but the money you save on tear out, and the hassle and mess you avoid may be worth the added expense. It may also be worth finally being able to walk on the new floor of your dreams.

Versatile Flooring Inc. brings over 30 years of combined experience in providing quality floor installation and kitchen and bathroom remodeling to South Florida. We are dedicated to providing skilled work and superior customer service to each client we have the privilege of serving. Your house is your home and we enjoy creating floors, kitchens and bathrooms you're proud to share with your friends and family.

Versatile Flooring Inc. is the exclusive installation company for National Ceramics.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carlos_Regueira


Monday, 17 November 2008

Be Careful When Using Mops To Clean Laminate floor

When you clean your kitchen floor you may use a regular old mop and heavy duty cleaners to strip the wax from the floor and remove surface dirt and grime. If you used to the same chemicals and mops to clean laminate floor you would have very negative results. To keep your laminate floor in pristine condition with a lustrous shine you must clean it with the appropriate chemicals and mops.

Mops to clean laminate floor should not be wet or submersed in any chemicals that are used to clean other types of flooring or damage to the floors sealants and coatings could be the result. When cleaning your laminate floor it is best to use one of the newer dry style mops to clean laminate floor. Many major manufactures have marketed these dry mops and they do a great job picking up loose dirt and dust that collects on floors. Many of these manufactures also have specialty laminate floor cleaners that are safe for your floors finish and will not cause and damage when used correctly.

When using any type of liquid chemical on you laminate floor you must avoid saturation. Although most laminate floors are water proof constant cleaning with to much flooring chemicals can cause it to seep between the flooring boards. This can cause the sub floor to swell and make your laminate floor buckle. Any liquid that is allowed between the laminate floor panels may also damage the floor as they will be able to sit on the flooring panels longer then they were designed for. Most laminate floors are designed to have the liquid spill cleaned up quickly and not left on for days. This is especially important in older floors where boards may have slightly separated since installation, even the smallest gaps can allow water under the floor.

When using mops to clean laminate floor always use common sense, good judgment and the proper mop and cleaners for the job.

More Great Info About Wood laminate flooring and its installation and care tips.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darin_Sewell

Friday, 4 March 2011

Flooring In The House And Garage

Choosing to add a new floor into your home is a great choice! If you add a new piece into your household, then you will be changing the way you feel because you will be enjoying your surroundings much more. There are many options of flooring that you can choose, and you can make your floor as personal as you want. A very popular choice is laminate flooring which has grown to the point where it is competing with the traditional hardwood floor.

If you are choosing between hardwood and laminate floors then there are a few things that you need to know. First of all, hardwood floors are much healthier towards the environment, and according to a large number of real estate agents, a hardwood floor can add anywhere from seven thousand to ten thousand dollars to the value of your house. Also, laminate flooring has a plywood base, which has a topping of veneer which is three-ply. When compared to a hardwood floor, laminate is very thin.

When it comes to laminate floors, it is also important to keep note of the fact that most manufactures of laminate floors have a five-year warranty on their floors and the laminate can only be refurbished three times at most. The amount of time refurbishing is needed highly depends on the amount of traffic that your floor comes in contact with on a daily basis. If you expect your floor to encounter a large amount of traffic then laminate would be a great choice because the veneer topping on these floors is about one eighth of an inch in thickness.

If you are considering a hardwood floor, then you should know about the three types. There is a strip floor which will make up a major part of installations and it normally is about two and one quarter inches wide and it can be anywhere from one and half to three and one-fourth inches wide. The installation of this type of floor involves you nailing each panel to the sub floor. The second type is three inches wide and can either be nailed or screwed into the sub floor. The third most popular type of hardwood flooring is parquet. It is sold in six by six blocks and you can pick your own patterns and designs with this floor type.

If you are looking for a new flooring option for your garage rather than your house, then you may want to look at a rubber garage floor. Many manufactures of garage floors use a polypropylene copolymer which does a great job separating your car from your floor. A rubber garage floor is a great option for you if you are a home mechanic. If you are a mechanic, then your garage floor most likely has a large amount of spills and damage caused by chemicals. With a rubber garage floor, the spills won't affect the concrete and they are much easier to clean up. Also if you lie down underneath the car then the rubber will be easier on your back than concrete.

There are many other garage flooring options that are very easy to install. Most of these options may be cheaper than you think. Regardless of the floor you wish to renovate, you still need to make a decision on how to renovate it. It is important that you do enough research where you can be comfortable with your final choice. After all, if you are making the investment to renovate your flooring, then you want to make sure you get your money's worth.

Tag : floor,flooring,house,garage


Sunday, 31 July 2011

10 Steps to Floor Sanding

Floor sanding is not really a DIY job. It is in fact a job for the professionals. Anyway just in case you want to know how to sand a wooden floor I will give you a a little guide to sanding and restoring wooden flooring.

First of all you will need to use a belt floor sandin g machine with a very coarse 36 grit on to remove all of the old seal and to level the floor. Always sand the floor going with the wood grain or at a 45 degrees angle to the grain.

Next you will need to start the smoothing process by using a 50 grit sanding belt. This will remove the scratches left by the previous 36 grit belt.

Next use a 80 grit sanding belt to remove the scratches left by the 50 grit sanding belt.

Next you will need a rotary sander or a buffer with a 100 grit or 120 grit disk to remove the fine scratches left by the 80 grit sanding belt. The buffer will leave the floor very smooth and prepare the floor for priming.

You will then need to apply a wood flooring base prime to prepare the wood floor for lacquering.

After you have primed the wooden floor you will then need to run the buffer machine over it with a 150 grit disk to remove any raised grain, leaving the floor very smooth.

Hoover the floor to remove all traces of dust and begin to roller on the lacquer of your choice e.g Bona or Junkers.

Next apply the second coat of lacquer after the first coat is dry.

You can then apply a third coat of lacquer if it is a high traffic area to protect the floor more.

You should then try your best to keep the floor free from any grit and dirt to keep the floor looking at its best for a longer period of time.

Floor sanding and restoring wooden flooring can transform a whole room from looking dull and dirty to looking new, fresh and very trendy. Wooden flooring is a very expensive material for flooring when you include the product and the installation cost, so it is therefore very beneficial to sand the floor and restore it as the cost is kept very low. Floor sanding again is a professional job so if you can help it do not try and start a floor on your own as it may end up ruining your beautiful wooden floor.